2005 CAYUGA FIRE DEPARTMENT DEMOLITION DERBY RULES

GENERAL RULES:
Must have a valid drivers license. If your are under 18, you must have a signed consent form from a parent or legal guardian.
Due to a park ordinance, there is NO ALCOHOL allowed in the park. Coolers will be inspected! You WILL forfeit any alcohol found and will lose it!
DOT approved helmet MUST be worn while on the track, whether you are running OR have been eliminated. Eye Protection is required.
Car must have working seat belts for the driver & passenger & must be worn during the heat.
An idle zone will be strictly enforced in ALL areas of the pits. Violators will be subject to grounds removal or arrest.
If you are using a torch, you must have a fire extinguisher with you.
NO gangbanging & NO sandbagging ! – If you don’t know what this is, you better ask.
Must make contact within 60 seconds if you are having mechanical problems or hung up, otherwise, you must make AGGRESSIVE contact !!! We use our own discretion for this rule. If a driver is really hitting well, he may get more time, if a driver is love tapping, he may get less, so get used to it.
1 warning for drivers door contact, 2nd time you are eliminated! Same rule goes for passenger door if there is a passenger !
1 fire is allowed, second fire you are disqualified. If a door comes open you are disqualified. You may return in the consolation heat.
NO fighting will be tolerated and may result in automatic park ejection and possible arrest !
No refunds. If you are caught cheating, you get NOTHING back, so don’t ask!!!
Drivers will draw for their heats during sign up and MAY be required to redraw at drivers meeting depending on car quantities.
NO vehicles allowed in the pits except the derby car and the truck pulling the car. Please put your tools, torches, tires, etc. in the pulling truck.
Please take all scrap with you ! All items (including vehicles) left in the park after 12:00pm the next day WILL BECOME PROPERTY OF C.V.F.D.
Nobody on the track except the drivers, passengers, officials, and emergency personnel. NO EXCEPTIONS!
ALL drivers and passengers must attend the drivers meeting – ANY controversies must be brought up at the drivers meeting or not at all!
Cars MUST be painted tastefully! No PROFANITY or OFFENSIVE material allowed on the car, including numbers!!! This IS a family show!
THE FINAL 3 FEATURE WINNERS WILL BE FULLY INSPECTED AFTER THE SHOW BY THE OFFICIALS!
IF THE RULES DO NOT SAY THAT YOU CAN OR CANNOT DO SOMETHING, YOU BETTER CALL BECAUSE WE WILL PROBABLY NOT ALLOW IT IF YOU JUST ASSUME THAT YOU CAN DO SOMETHING THAT ISN’T SPECIFIED. NO GRAY AREAS – CALL IF YOU DON’T KNOW.
NEW PROTEST FEE: $100 TO PROTEST A CAR. Only other drivers from that particular derby are able to protest a car & the driver MUST have the cash in hand in order to protest. At the time of protest, BOTH the protested car AND the car owned by the protester WILL be re-inspected. The ONLY people that may be present during the re-inspection of the protested car is the inspection crew, the driver of the protested car & the protester. NO other people may be within 50’ of the re-inspection. If the car passes the inspection, the “protested” driver will receive $25 of the protest fee.

“STOCK” CAR RULES:
Car MUST have a spreader bar that goes from behind the drivers door to behind the passenger door – NO EXCEPTIONS ! Violators will not be allowed to run until they install one because of safety. Optional Cage allowed – front bar not to be more than 4” past the front door seam, middle bar not further than 6” behind the front seat, and rear bar can be a maximum of 20" center to center from the seat pipe (gas tank protection). Cage may be mounted to either the body OR the frame, but not both ! NO KICKERS forward or backward from the cage allowed!!! You MAY weld a roll over bar in the middle of this cage, but it should mount to the cage and not attach to the roof of the car. This is strictly for your protection.
All glass, plastic, chrome, wheel weights, and loose debris must be removed from the car.
The stock gas tank MUST be removed. All chrome must be removed. All wheel weights MUST be removed.
The battery must be moved inside the passenger compartment and tightly fastened with a cover.
Gas tank must be mounted inside the passenger compartment, tightly secured, and covered. Plastic tanks must be in a containment box & covered. (We prefer metal tanks!) No more than 5 gallons of fuel. Do not use the stock fuel line and secure new line properly. Keep away from exhaust.
Battery and gas tank must be in separate areas and covered (Not next to each other) OR in separate containment boxes.
Must have working brakes – be prepared to demonstrate. Violators will not be allowed to participate.
No extra engine cooling devices. We will allow 1 transmission cooler.
Radiators must remain in stock position with no reinforcement.
If wire is used, it is to be #9 wire and has NO quantity limit. (Use as much as you want because anyone can get it)
Hood MUST be open at inspection– NO EXCEPTIONS! If you bring it wired shut, we WILL cut it open to inspect. You MAY use 4 pcs of ¾” all-thread.
The front two hood bolts can go through frame by the core support. The other two must be sheet metal to sheet metal.
Trunk - The inspectors must be able to clearly see in the trunk or a 12” hole MUST be cut in the lid. Accepted methods to fasten lid: wire, chain, 2 pcs ¾” all thread (or bolts) through the frame and 2 pcs through the sheet metal, OR 2” skip weld. You may NOT attach the trunk lid to the floor of the trunk. You cannot see under the lid when this is done. The lid must be mounted or removed.
Holes must be cut in hood for fire extinguishment. (If there is not header holes, a special hole must be cut.)
NO electronic fuel pumps without a full cutoff switch.
Doors – All doors can be welded shut. Weld CAN be solid on ALL doors. You may also skip weld, chain, or wire them shut as long as it is SECURE.
Body mounts may be replaced with stacked washers and all thread or bolts NO bigger than 3 / 4”. Washers used must not be bigger than 3”x3” and must be free floating (Not welded to the body or frame). To make it easier, instead of washers, you may leave the original puck, replace the bolts, and torque them down to smash the puck some as long as a space is maintained. The car body MUST NOT be bolted directly down to the frame with the exception of the core support area! The front core support MAY be sucked down to the frame, but only in this area! A gap between the body and the frame MUST be maintained with either the original puck OR stacked washers. The front body mounts may be replaced with all thread that also holds the hood down, but we prefer that you weld a handle to the hood nuts so we can easily open it without a wrench.
Bumpers: You can use ANY factory bumper on ANY model car. Do not get carried away with mounting. You may collapse the shocks and push the bumper in. Allowable welds on a bumper: You may weld the bumper to the shocks, weld the impact seam of the shock, & weld the shock to the frame! In addition to the weld &/or bolts, we also recommend either wiring or chaining the bumper to the frame. { NO HANDMADE BUMPERS OR BUMPER ACCESSORIES, NO BUMPER REINFORCEMENT SUCH AS ANGLE IRON OR PLATE ALONG ENTIRE WIDTH. }
Frames: There must not be any frame plating, filling, stuffing, or concrete. You may weld a PLATE band-aid NO BIGGER than 4” x 6” x 3/8” thick to a crack, break, or severe bend in the frame. MUST be able to see the crack or bend for verification. Band-aid must be plate, NO angle iron! NO MORE than 4 band-aids on the frame (total) to repair a crack or bend, so if your frame has more damage than that, some cracks will need to let nature take it’s course! Do not call to see if you can put on a 5th, because you can’t. You may seam weld the frame in the following areas:
Front of car: From the back of the A-arm to the front bumper. Rear of car: The rear hump (wheel) area to the rear bumper.
If a portion of the frame needs replaced, you may do so after checking with the head official (DON’T get excessive). Do NOT plug weld frame holes!
No concrete anywhere on the car.
No Imperials, hearses, taxi’s, limousines, imperial subframes in other models, x-frames, or convertible frames.
No body plates except to hold the spreader bars in place or to protect driver and passenger, but not to exceed 6” past the door seam. You can patch rust holes in sheet metal with sheet metal only! Do not cut rust out-weld 2" beyond rust. You may re-weld factory body seams, but do NOT add any steel other than the weld bead. No body panel doubling! No weld stacking or filler on any body or frame bead (except the doors.)
No antifreeze allowed.
Skid plates are allowed but must remain separate for your oil and transmission. No full length skid plates and no bolting & welding it to the frame.
No solid tires (Hyster tires, etc.) Tires MUST contain some air.
Hood MUST remain in stock position. (Not bent down to the bumper to protect the radiator unless approved)
Car must have a pipe, wire, or plate from the cowl to the roof to prevent the hood from entering car. You may add one to the front & side windows.
Stock springs must remain on the car (no leaf conversions). 4 clamps allowed on each leaf spring, no bigger than 2x4x3/8”. Leaf springs must remain stock (# and stagger), you cannot weld the leafs together! You can wire or bolt the coils to the rear end and weld the leaf brackets to the car.
Rear-ends must be of CAR origin only, no floater or truck types please. Rear end control arms may be modified, strengthened & reinforced but must still be workable.
You may run 1 chain around each side of the rear end and through the floorboard.
Steering System– You may alter your steering column to prevent loss and strengthen your tie rods as long as they function as stock.
Front doors should be painted white to help us cut down on door hits. If your door is not white – don’t whine if we don’t see a door hit on your car!
NO added reinforcement from the core support to the firewall allowed. NO fender or core support reinforcement such as flat stock, angle iron, etc.
No loose material in the car. All hitches must be removed.
No more than 1 battery.
SAFETY FIRST: No unsafe practices like protruding all thread, radiator drain hoses pointed at people, and teeth cut into the bumpers, etc.
If a bumper or something comes loose during the race and appears to be a safety concern, we reserve the right to act and correct it.
Once again, OFFICIALS DECISION IS FINAL, so please contact us before you try something, because we may not allow it.
In addition to the doors, the car must have the number painted on the roof of the car a minimum of 24” tall.

TRUCK
Remove all glass.
Remove stock gas tanks and put one in the center of bed against cab, tightly secure, and cover.
Move battery to inside the cab, tightly secure it, and cover it up.
MUST have a spreader bar behind the seat.
Any American made 2-wheel drive pickup, blazer, bronco, or suburban ½ or ¾ ton will be allowed. No 4 x 4’s.
You may weld, wire, or chain doors shut.
UNLIMITED # 9 wire use.
Secure tailgate with either wire, chain, or welding.
You may replace body mounts with all thread or bolts no bigger than 3 / 4”.
You may use wire, bolts, or all thread no bigger than 3 / 4” to secure hood. (all thread nuts need a handle to open hood)
NO REINFORCEMENT anywhere on the truck.
Please review the normal car rules and apply all of those rules THAT CAN BE APPLIED.
We strongly suggest that you have a cage and roll over protection!!! Padding is also recommended.
NO PASSENGERS!

COMPACT CAR
Maximum wheelbase dimension is 104”! A car may not run the race with a longer wheelbase than this!
Engine must be 4 or 6 cylinders only. (No V8’s)
Remove all glass.
Remove stock gas tanks and put one in the back floor board, tightly secure, and cover.
Move battery to inside the passenger compartment, tightly secure it, and cover it up.
MUST have a spreader bar behind the seat. (We recommend roll over protection.)
You may weld, wire, or chain doors shut.
UNLIMITED # 9 wire use.
Secure hatchbacks or trunks with either wire, chain, or welding.
You may replace body mounts with all thread or bolts no bigger than 3 / 4”.
You may use wire, bolts, or all thread no bigger than 3 / 4” to secure hood. (all thread nuts need a handle to open hood)
NO REINFORCEMENT anywhere on the car.
NO PASSENGERS!
Please review the normal car rules and apply all of those rules THAT CAN BE APPLIED.

There is NO crying in demolition derbies! If you have a suggestion or comment, bring it up at the end of the night in a professional manner and we will listen to you. Your voice may not be heard in the form of whining. WE ARE ALL IN THIS FOR THE FUN, SO LETS BE MATURE & FAIR & HAVE A GOOD TIME.

FOR RULE QUESTIONS, PLEASE CONTACT: DAVID BAILEY @ dwbailey98@yahoo.com
Phone 765-492-9030 (You will have better luck by e-mail)